Aux Annees Vins

The next stop was the co-operative cave where it was possible to sample local wines from all of the region’s ‘recognised’ vineyards, ‘degustation’ before purchase. Slightly puzzled, Dave and Kenny inquired as to what the term ‘degustation’ actually meant. To which I replied, ‘free bup’ enjoy! Enough said, the glasses were quickly racked up we began to enjoy. Still the wine of choice was the Premier cru Montagny. This small village which is located adjacent to Buxy boasts most of the top quality wines of the area. The whites are beautifully rounded with a full fruity dry taste I personally feel they are as good as any whites in the entire region of Burgundy. Not far behind in quality are the Aligote whites of St. Gengoux, Chardonnay and St. Martin, the warm light reds of Givry and Mercury and a deeper smooth red from Macon. Although principally beer drinkers the rest of the group gave it their best shot accepting our advice but also trying other varieties until they were 100% sure. After the tasting we had only a few hours to kill until we were booked into the restaurant. Mustering in the bar at 7.30 I was totally surprised when I was presented with 20 selected beers which the team had clubbed together as a token of their appreciation for all the work that I had put in organising the event. This was a truly unexpected gift, perhaps this was an indication of how satisfied the team had become.

“Aux Annees Vins”, owned by Celine and Philippe Queneau, is situated in the heart of the Gothic tower in the centre of Buxy. It possesses one Michelin star but not in the normal sense of the award. There is a category of quality which embraces the smaller localised restaurants. The main criteria being that as well as the dining environment being acceptable, including cutlery, crockery, linen and glass, the staff must be trained to a particularly high standard. Significantly, the menu should include a 20 euro affordable set meal with the most expensive not exceeding 50 euros. The relative cheap restraints of the food should not reflect the quality but encourage the chef to be thoughtfully strategic about the possible combinations of ingredients existing within the framework. Each dish maximising the potential of the local produce, excluding or minimising any waste. Given all of these factors the restaurant is far from ‘stuffy’ but reflects all of the above stipulations and more. The decision was made to opt for the 28 euro set meal which offered three starters, three main, cheese and dessert. Mussel mousse, foie gras including a glass of Montagny and a country pate followed by magret du canette, poulet buerre or entrecote de charolais were the possibilities, perfectly concluded by trios fromage, marcillan creamed cheese or compte. Additional courses were brought as aperitifs; there were freshly prepared tasty bites each topping imaginatively created, later came a local creamed yogurt and finally freshly baked biscuit nibbles. The dessert order had been taken at the beginning of the meal so the pastry chef could craft the concoctions whilst we were enjoying the rest of the meal: these were chocolate sauce pudding, apple marc sorbet, a selection of mini desserts or ice cream with praline. The group devoured the food, sometimes sampling other peoples but often guarding their selection fiercely such was the standard of the fayre. Only small quantities of wine was consumed each person anticipating the next course patiently but eagerly and not wanting to spoil the experience by drowning the moment by vats of vins de maison. The Doc claimed that it was the best meal that he had ever consumed and likewise, compliments flowed spontaneously from everyone throughout the evening. The total bill was approximately 50 euros per head; no one begrudged a penny.  

We returned to Logis de Montagny still unbelievably content with the whole day which had started with the local market at Buxy and finshed with the wonderful evening at Aux Annees Vins.